He E Nalu Research Paper

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He’e Nalu “He’e nalu” is Hawaiian for “to ride the waves,” or as Americans call it, surfing. Surfing is an extreme sport that takes place in the ocean. Although only some people can actually surf, the sport unites islands to the rest of the world. All around the world people are involved with this popular sport, but how did this sport originate and how did it become so popular? To fully understand surfing, one must know the history of it and how to do it. A lot of people that want to know about surfing should first knows its background. The sport originated in the Hawaiian Islands, at approximately A.D. 600-700. Explorers that went to Hawaii and saw the natives riding the waves were in awe. In the 1820s, the sport almost disappeared because…show more content…
Surfing is more than just riding waves, it is a science. Surfers have to determine whether or not a wave has the right power, height, and width to give them a good ride. Also, they have to consider the wave’s thickness, location, and shape. For instance, if the wave is too thick for the rider, it could cause a rough and risky ride, possibly injuring the surfer. The location of a wave is very important. If the wave is too close to cliffs or a rough reef, a surfer usually does not take it because of the danger. Surfers should only take waves they can handle. A wipeout can be very risky. What should a surfer do when being taken by a wave after a spill? Booth explains, “When they wipeout in extreme surf, surfers curl their bodies into a ball” (101). This keeps limbs safe. When attempting to catch a wave, a surfer must paddle quickly to get in front of the wave. Then, just before the wave passes, the surfer must raise themselves up from the board. Now that the surfer has caught the wave, they must maintain their balance. A firm, wide stance helps. Also, holding arms out in a “T” shape steadies the rider. The person now has the choice, depending on their experience, to relax and go with the wave or do advanced moves. Successful surfing requires attention to detail. The details make the ride possible. Surfers train and practice every aspect needed repetitively and

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