E. Cobham Brewer 18101897. Dictionary of Phrase and Fable. 1898.
Groaning Malt.
A strong ale brewed for the gossips who attend at the birth of a child, and for those who come to offer to a husband congratulations at the auspicious event. A cheese, called the Ken-no, or groaning cheese, was also made for the occasion. (See KEN-NO.)
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Meg Merrilies descended to the kitchen to secure her share of the groaning malt.Sir W. Scott: Guy Mannering, chap. iii.